July 17, 2008 || Last Day Downtown

Today's been all about getting my things in order and getting ready to say goodbye. I've been stressed all day, wondering if my bags are going to fit, wondering if my plane's going to be late, wondering if I'm getting sick or if it's just Piter's terrible air... Added to that, when I went to pay for my room this morning Natalya and I spent about an hour on the phone arguing with the credit card company and whatnot--my credit card wouldn't go through! And I only have so many roubles left here. Eventually it cleared, but not until I busted out my driver's license and social security number. Then I crossed my fingers and hoped it would work later.

I headed down the the Aleksandr Nevsky Lavra, which is basically like... well, I don't know the Catholic equivalent, but it's the higest rank an Eastern Orthodox church can attain, and the outside was gorgeous. In the complex there were 4 different graveyards--one for military, one for scholars and priests, and two for more famous chaps. I only paid to go in one, and again I was amazed by the intricacy of Russian grave markers. Some had full-on mini-mausoleums, there was one fountain, and the sculptures were just incredible. Saw Dostoevsky's grave, that was pretty cool--there were even fresh flowers there, which made me strangely happy. Do people leave flowers on Mark Twain's grave back home? I'd like to find out. Then I walked up to Ploshad Vosstaniya, but not before agonizing over teapots and teacups at a Lomonosov Imperial Porcelain store. Still questing for Aunt Chrissie's teapot, and furthermore, I wanted to buy Masha something nice for her wedding. I don't really know what to get for her, but mom had suggested maybe a pair of nice teacups--fine china and then I could buy an identical one too, and say that whenever we drink from our cups we should think of one another. Finally I decided on some pretty white and silver numbers and stepped up to the cashier--only to be rejected. Mom didn't get my text messages and I frantically texted Curtis to wake her up. Thanks to him we got the ball rolling on the credit card company, but I had to meet Masha for lunch and gylyating, so I headed up to Chainaya Lozhka.

She brought Vova! Immediately I clammed up, and it took a long time for me to relax enough to speak decent Russian. We talked about lots of different things while we ate, and then decided to head towards the Summer Garden. By the time we reached Gostiniy Dvor' it started raining pretty intensely, and Masha asked if I had time to go to the Zoological museum. I thought about it, knowing now that I would have to go back and buy my tea things, then find someplace to leave them for her (I was already thinking Gerzen), and I sad no. I almost started crying when we said goodbye, especially because Vova produced a small little box, and Masha told me it was because she'd remembered my birthday was coming up. The generosity and friendliness of this girl are incredible! Finally we parted ways and I dashed off to Gerzen, where somehow I sweet-talked my way into the hotel and up to the 3rd floor. Very rudely I barged in on the current ACTR Pete's director and outlined my sad story, begging him to take care of my teapot. I think ACTR only employs the coolest people, because he and his Russian partner were more than happy to oblige. So then I had to go back down to Ploshad Aleksandra Nevskovo and make my way back to the tea store. And, can you believe it! My Peruvian friends were in line, purchasing a zoo of miniature porcelain animals. What are the chances!? We hugged and cheek-kissed again, talked a bit and after my credit card went through, said "See you tomorrow!" Part of me would love to stay the extra day just to see if it could possibly happen.

Now I'm almost back home--I have no idea how I'm going to fit everything into my suitcases, whether I'm carry-oning it or checking things (hopefully all the way) through. I can't wait to go to the bathroom and take a nice shower--but I think I'm meeting Susan & Co. for sushi dinner tonight, and of course I have to see Marina before I leave. Tomorrow, breakfast at 8 am so I can get to Pulkovo airport super early, and then hopefully on to Moscow, then New York. I can't wait to get home and see everyone--especially after the running around and rain all day, I'm ready to go home, stop worrying about travel an my dirty clothes, and relax.

Phew. I'll definitely miss this place, though.